Brake Specifications
(Haynes) Table generated by Miles Fox
| General | |
| Brake fluid type | DOT 3 |
| Brake pedal adjustents | |
| Pedal freeplay | 1/64 to 3/32 in. |
| Pedal height | 5-1/8 in. |
| Disc Brake (front and rear) | |
| Minimum brake bad thickness | |
| Disc minimum thickness | Refer to dimension marked on disc |
| Disc runout limit | .0039 in. |
| Rear drum brake | |
| Minimum brake shoe lining thickness | |
| Brake drum maximum diammeter | Refer to dimensions marked on drum |
| Torque Specifications | |
| Brake booster-to-firewall | 108 to 204 in-lbs |
| Brake hose-to-front caliper banjo bolt | 132 to 180 in-lbs |
| Front Caliper | |
| Caliper lock pin | 33 to 54 ft-lbs |
| Caliper mounting bolt | 36 to 51 ft-lbs |
| Rear caliper bolts | 16 to 23 ft-lbs |
| Caliper support bracket bolts | |
| Front caliper bracket | 36 to 51 ft-lbs |
| Rear caliper bracket | 34 to 43 ft-lbs |
| Master cylinder check valve cap | 18 to 25 ft-lbs |
| Master cylinder stopper screw | 24 in-lbs |
| Master cylinder mounting nut | 84 to 144 in-lbs |
| Front hub-to-disc bolts | 33 to 43 ft-lbs |
| Rear brake disc/hub-to-spindle nut | 145 ft-lbs |
| Rear hub-to-brake disc bolt/nut | 58 to 72 ft-lbs |
| Rear brake drum or disc-to-spindle nut (4wd) | 145 ft-lbs |
| Wheel cylinder mounting nuts | 72 to 84 in-lbs |
Bleeding
Brakes and Master Cylinder
Written by MorganM
Posted: 04:44 PM – 01-12-2005
http://www.mnsubaru.com/
Overview:
This article is to assist people with bleeding the air out of their brake
lines. It will also cover bleeding the air out of your master cylinder.
Terms:
· "Bench Bleed": This is the slang term for the process of bleeding
your Master Cylinder
· MC: Acronym for Master Cylinder. The main brake cylinder in the engine
bay. Its just under, and attached to, the brake fluid reservoir.
· SC: Acronym for Slave Cylinder. Each "brake" has a Slave Cylinder
so you have 4 total. They are built into the caliper or drum.
· Speed Bleeders: The true "one man bleeding kit". You’ve tried
the rest now go buy the best http://www.speedbleeder.com For more extensive information
on applying these to an EA82 style Subaru review my thread here:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.net/forum…ead.php?t=16029
· Hard Lines: Metal brake lines. These are used in the majority of your
brake system.
· Soft Lines: Reinforced braided nylon lines with a soft core. These are
flexible brake lines used in key places where the suspension must flex.
· Male and Female Fittings: The ends of your hard lines and soft lines
have fittings. Male fittings go into the female fittings and screw together to
make an air tight seal. Male Fittings have the treads visible from the outside
and the male fitting slides freely on the hard line. Female fittings have the
threads on the inside and are secured tightly to your soft lines.
· Union Fitting: A coupler with 2 female ends that joins two male hard
line fittings together in union. (this is getting kinky )
Tools Needed:
· 10mm open end wrench
· 8mm open end wrench
· Vice Grips
· Rags (brake fluid is quite caustic and will dry your skin out something
fierce!)
· 1 Quart of DOT3 brake fluid
· 3/16′ or 1/8′ rubber hose (preferably clear)
· Tiny hose clamps for rubber hose
· Old pieces of hard lines with male fittings
Bench Bleeding MC:
Why?
You would do this procedure in 3 situations.
1. Putting on a new or used MC.
2. Accidentally let the reservoir go empty and sucked air into the MC.
3. Tried and tried to bleed just the brakes and still have poor brake pedal
response.
How:
Take two old male end fittings and cut the lines real short. Then slip on
about 5 inches of rubber hose on the hard lines you just cut. Secure rubber
line to hard line using very small hose clamp to ensure there is no leaking
of air into the system. I would also suggest using clear tube so you can
watch the air bubbles.
Unscrew the two fittings from the
side of your master cylinder, one at a time, and screw in
your new ‘bleeders’ you just made. Pop the cap off the MC
reservoir and run the rubber lines directly up into the reservoir.
Make sure the reservoir is at the Full mark.
Now get in the cabin and pump the
brakes with the engine off. Keep pumping until you see no
more air bubbles in the lines. Quickly remove and replace
the normal hard line fittings one at a time. Onto bleeding
the rest of your system now!
Bleeding the Brakes:
Why:
To get air out of your lines or SCs so you have proper brake pedal response
and pressure. This would be after you had to remove a caliper or drum brake
from the brake lines. After repairing a section of brake lines. Or any other
reason that air might have been introduced into your brake system.
How with Speed Bleeders:
The key to this process is the cross directional pattern in which you bleed
your brakes. Start with the rear passenger’s side brake, front driver’s
side brake, rear driver’s side brake, and finally the front passenger’s
side brake (Rear right, front left, rear left, front right) You can
do this with or with out the engine running. With the engine running
you have more power as you are using the brake booster. Sometimes this
is not always possible and you can do it with the engine off.
Turn the rear right speed bleeder
1/4 turn. Get in the driver’s seat and pump the pedal 10
times. Now check your brake fluid reservoir and top it off
as needed. Finally go close the rear right speed bleeder.
Process is the same for the remaining
three bleeders. DON’T LET YOUR RESERVOIR GO EMPTY or you
will be starting over at the top with a bench bleed.
Once all 4 have been bleed and the
speed bleeders are securely closed you can test your brake
pressure. Test it with the engine off. Pump it once and you
should have good pressure. Hold it TIGHT and make sure it
does not progressively go down. It if holds then you are
golden if it starts to slowly go down then you have a leak.
Fire up the engine now and pump the pedal once. Again you
should have solid pressure. If the pedal still feels "spongy" or "soft" then
repeat the bleeding procedure again.
How with OUT Speed Bleeders:
First off you should go buy speed bleeders. Okay never mind just grab a friend
to help you for the next 2 hours. Again the key is the cross directional
pattern of bleeding. Start with the rear passenger’s side brake, front
driver’s side brake, rear driver’s side brake, and finally the front
passenger’s side brake (Rear right, front left, rear left, front right)
You can do this with or with out the engine running. With the engine
running you have more power as you are using the brake booster. Sometimes
this is not always possible and you can do it with the engine off.
One of you sit in the drivers seat
to operate the brake pedal. This person should also ensure
the brake fluid reservoir NEVER EVER goes empty or it’s back
to bleeding the MC. The other person will use the 8mm (rear
bleeders) and 10mm (front bleeders) to operate the bleeder
valves in the brake’s SCs.
Now this will take some team work
here! Driver will pump pedal up and hold the pedal solid
and say "GO". Copilot will now open the bleeder
and watch the fluid squirt out. Driver will yell "STOP" BEFORE
the pedal hits the floor. The copilot must close the bleeder
before the pedal hits the floor. Repeat this 5 times on each
SC’s bleeder valve. Driver must check brake fluid reservoir
before moving on to the next valve.
Repeat this for all 4 brakes in the
pattern mentioned above. It’s a little more tricky than Speed
Bleeders or other ‘one man bleed kits’ but certainly doable
as millions of people have done it this way for the last
several decades Something that can help if you are having
trouble timing it with your copilot. Take those rubber lines
and put one over your bleeder valve. Run that down to a cup
of brake fluid on the floor. Now if you accidentally suck
some back in because the bleeder wasn’t closed fast enough
you will suck in old fluid and NOT air.
Good luck !_!
MorganM
Front
Disc Brake
Once the Wheel
is removed, the caliper can be accessed. The caliper mounts to
a bracket that is mounted to the knuckle. The parking brake mechanism
is connected to the front brake calipers. 
A
cable pulls a lever which extends the piston. The piston has to
be turned clockwise to turn it back in due to the design of the
mechanism.
Make sure
the parking brake lever is off when servicing the caliper.
Remove
the caliper by using a 14mm wrench to take out the bottom caliper
slide bolt. You may have to use a prybar to loosen the caliper
from the rotor. The caliper will swing upwards from the bottom.
Swing it out of the way of the rotor, slide back towards the car,
and it is now free. The caliper can be completely removed from
the brake line with a 14mm banjo bolt. But that is not necessary
for a normal brake job.
Now that the
caliper has been removed, the caliper bracket can be removed. The
caliper attaches to the back of the steering knuckle with two 17mm
bolts. Remove the bolts and the caliper bracket.
With the caliper
bracket out of the way, you can now remove the rotor. I removing
the rotor, you will have loosened the axle nut before the wheel
was removed.
off the axle stub. The hub can be removed from the rotor with a
14mm socket.
There are
three 12mm bolts that hold the backing plate to the knuckle.
Turn the caliper
piston clockwise to seat it in its bore. There is a special tool
for this. But it can be done with a pair of pliers and deft hands.
Channel locks are good for freeing up the piston; you can turn
it about half way. The OE Subaru Tool Kit pliers will work to turn
the piston in the rest of the way, put the
may also to use needle nose pliers, keep them straight and even
pressure and they work quite well.
Sometimes
the piston will turn but not engage. If the case is so, give the
piston a light tap with a hammer or tool, turn, tap, to engage
the thread.
pads will have a metal tab the fits around the ends, the squeal
tab (wear indicator) should down into the caliper, towards the
inner portion of the rotor.
When installing
the caliper, make sure that the notches on the piston lines up
with the notch on the back of the pads. Push the boot on the caliper
slide pin out so it doesn’t run into the caliper mount when it
is swung down.
Rear
Disc Brake
Disc
brakes generally appear on Turbo model EA82. The caliper is the
same between 2wd and 4wd models. There are 2 bolts that hold
the caliper to the bracket, There is a bolt with a torx head,
leave that in. remove the 14mm bolt on the bottom, and rotate
the caliper up and out of the way of the rotor, and slide off
the top pin. The piston can be seated in its bore with either
a C-clamp or a large pair of pliers.
The caliper
bracket bolts to the backing plate. Backing plates are 2wd and
4wd specific, but the caliper bracket and backing plate are of
the same dimensions.
caliper bracket from the back of the backing plate. Remove
the caliper bracket, pads in or out.
(2wd)
The Hub
on a 2wd is different than a 4wd, but the rotor that bolts up
to the hub is the same. Remove the bolt and the spacer that contains
the bearing, remove the bearing. Remove the rotor. There will
be a bearing and spacer on the back side of the hub.
The
cotter pin and axle nut will have been removed first, using a
36mm socket. Slide the rotor away from the splined axle shaft.
The hub
can be unbolted from the rotor with a 14mm socket if the rotor
needs turned or replaced.
The
backing plate is held onto the rear trailing arm by 3 14mm bolts.
The front two bolts thread into the trailing arm. The bolt towards
the back threads into a 14mm nut. The backing plate may be seized
to the trailing arm. If so, rotate and wiggle until it is free.
You may have to take a wire brush and clean up the rust.
The 2wd
backing plate differs from the 4wd backing plate as the hole
in the center is smaller. A 4wd backing plate will bolt onto
a 2wd trailing arm, but a 2wd will not fit on a 4wd without modification
Ultimate Subaru