Engine
Removal and Installation Procedure
This Procedure Describes removing the EA82 engine as
a complete unit. Procedure is similar with EA81
Follow the Radiator Removal Procedure
Electrical Connections
Disconnect
both battery cables from the battery. Remove the battery for access. Disconnect
the 2 ground wires from the water pipe mount near the lower radiator hose.
Unclip the Wire from the back of the alternator, and remove the white wire
from the alternator with an 8mm wrench. Put the nut back on the alternator
so it doesn't get lost.
Disconnect the 2 wires
off the distributor from the coil, using 8mm. The carburetor may have an
intake harness with a plastic clip to the wiring harness. On SPFI and MPFI
Turbo models, unclip the distributor from the wiring harness. Also disconnect
the 2 fat harness connectors near the coil (on XT models these connections
are near the top and middle of the firewall)
Hoses and Lines
Disconnect
the Heater Hoses from the engine side.
Disconnect
The power steering lines. The pressurized line has a 17mm compression fitting
that threads into a steel line on the power steering pump. It has a 19mm
hex to hold stable when using the 17mm wrench. Make note of the o-ring
on the male end and make sure not to lose it. The return line has a rubber
hose between the line and the reservoir. Remove the hose from either the
line or reservoir end. The stock OE clamp will have a 10mm head. Most aftermarket
clamps will have a 5 1/6” (8mm) head. I recommend slipping a pop bottle
or can over the reservoir rubber hose/fitting, to catch any (ATF dextron)
fluid that may spill. There are two 10mm bolts that holds the lines to
the side of the motor, one bolt is on the oil fill tube base and the top
of the cam case on the passenger side (EA82).
Disconnect the Brake
Booster hose from the intake manifold. The stock OE clamp will be a constant
tension band (CTB) clamp that can be removed with pliers
On SPFI and MPFI Turbo
models disconnect the air intake tube from the MAF, leaving the MAF and
its connection with the airbox.
Throttle Cable and
Hill Holder
On carbureted models
remove the airbox to access the throttle cable
On SPFI models, remove
the air intake tube by loosening the clamp around the throttle body (10mm)
On
MPFI Turbo models, remove the intake plenum by loosening the clamp at the
turbo and throttle body (10mm). You then can lift it out of the way to
access the throttle cable.
Loosen
the two 12mm nuts on the throttle cable. Thread them off the end of the
throttle cable, and remove the cable from its mount on the engine bell
housing or intake manifold. Now that you have some slack, remove the ball
end from the throttle, like that of a bicycle brake cable. Tick the cable
out of the way so that is does not snag on the motor as it comes out.
The
engine can be removed and installed without disconnecting the Hill-Holder
cable. But the hill-holder cable will feed thru other hoses and wires around
the motor. You can disconnect the hoses a round the cable. The cable will
fit in a mount that holds the fuel lines .You can either leave it connected
or disconnect it at your discretion.
Fuel Lines
Disconnect the 2 fuel
lines from the carburetor, a fat and skinny hose. The stock OE clamps will
have an 8mm head. Most aftermarket clamps will have ¼” head. The
vent from the gas tank will connect to the filter.
On SPFI models, disconnect
the 2 fuel lines from the throttle body. The hose from the filter connects
to the bottom of the throttle body, and the top hose goes to the firewall.
A third vent line will come from the back of the intake manifold and go
down along the frame near the hill holder.
On
MPFI Turbo models, the line from the filter connects to the fuel injector
side of the fuel rail. The line from the firewall will connect to the pressure
regulator side of the fuel rail. Disconnect the vent line from the back
of the intake manifold.
Gripping the fuel
lines with pliers and “cracking” them with a twist will help them pull
away easier. If replacing the lines, use fuel injection
rated 3/8” hose.
The vapor charcoal
canister can remain connected. Unfasten the clip that holds it in and swing
the whole unit over the top of the engine.
Under the Car
The
only things to be disconnected under the car are the exhaust y-pipe and
motor mounts. On Carb and SPFI models, use a deep wall 14mm socket and
extension to remove the nuts from the exhaust studs. Be careful not to
damage the treads if the whole stud wants to come out. If the nuts are
too rusty, work them back and forth to clear the treads of rust and dirt.
Once the nuts/studs are out, allow the whole pipe to drop down away from
the motor. Now that the y-pipe
is away from the motor/cross member, use the same socket to remove the
motor mount nuts from the bottom. There will be a washer and a lock washer
with each nut.
On
Turbo models, remove only the motor mount nuts, and remove the exhaust
down-pipe from the back of the turbo(from under the hood)
Once
all the exhaust and motor mounts are loosened, place a jack under the transmission
and jack the motor/trans up enough that the motor mount studs come up and
out of the cross member.
Engine and Transmission
Remove
the Pitch-Stopper bar from the firewall and engine with a 14mm socket and
wrench. (it will help to remove the engine side bolt before jacking the
motor to clear the cross member) Put the engine side bolt back in to connect
the engine puller to. Remove the top bolts thru the bell housing. Thread
the washers and nuts back onto the bolts and set them aside. The starter
side bolt will run into the positive battery cable boot before it comes
all the way out, but it will come out far enough for the motor to pull
away.
Wit the motor already
jacked up, makes it easier to access the nuts that go onto the studs from
the bottom of the engine thru the transmission. Remove the nut and its
washers with a 14mm. The driver side can be accessed easier if the distributor
is removed, especially automatic transmissions.
On automatic transmissions,
use a 22mm (7/8”) socket or offset wrench on the crank pulley bolt. Turn
the crank so that the torque converter bolts show thru the timing window.
Remove the 4 12mm bolts. An offset wrench works rather well. A socket may
fit, its easer to use a socket if you take the pitch bar mount off(but
put it back on to pull the motor!).
Pull the Motor!
Now that everything
is disconnected and unbolted, you will have to separate the motor from
the bell housing. If the motor has never been out, you may have to wedge
a screwdriver or chisel to widen the gap for a prybar. In extreme cases,
a dowel may stay with the transmission, it is supposed to stay with the
motor. Pay attention to the fact if you are swapping engines or transmissions.
On automatic models, pry between the flexplate and torque converter so
the torque converter stays with the transmission.
Connect the engine
to your favorite engine pulling device. Pull the motor forward until the
bottom studs come out. Then raise the engine up, making sure that the studs
clear the torque converter, or that the transmission shaft clears the pressure
plate. You may have to turn the motor one way or the other, making sure
that the power steering pulley, water pump, and oil pump sending unit don't
catch on the front of the car as it comes out. Also pay attention to any
loose wires or hoses that may snag on the motor as it comes out. Also look
for anything you forgot to disconnect as it comes out.
Install the Motor
On Manual Transmission models follow the Clutch Service Procedure if the clutch has been removed or
is being replaced
Jack
up the transmission a few inches if it is not still up from pulling the
motor
Installing the motor
is reverse of the removal. On automatic models, line up the torque converter
so that one of the bolt holes are at the top. Drop the motor in, down slowly
enough that you can get the bottom studs to line up. Once you line the
studs up, push the motor in towards the back of the car.
On
turbo models pay attention to the turbo to down-pipe studs so they line
up. You may have to raise or lower the engines a little to get it to slide
on at the right angle. Also remember your hill holder cable if you left
it attached. Get the motor against the transmission as far as possible.
On manual transmission models, you may have to wiggle the motor so that
the pilot bearing lines up with the transmission shaft. You will feel it “give”,
the space between the bell housing should be even on both sides of the
motor
Mate the motor to
the transmission enough to start a bolt on the top, or a nut on the bottom.
You may have to start a bolt or nut without the washers and draw the motor
together enough before you can put them on. Draw the motor up with the
nuts/bolts evenly until you see that the dowels are going into their holes.
Once you get that far, you can remove a nut or bolt one at a time to install
the washers.
On the starter side,
make sure the bolt goes through the negative battery cable mount, before
you tighten it down.
Now that the motor
is bolted to the transmission, pull up any loose wiring and hoses before
they get stuck between the motor and framerails. Now slowly lower the jack,
so that the motor goes in, wiggle the motor so that the mount studs go
through the cross member. They might not both go in, but if you get one
side in, you can get under the car with a prybar between the mount and
the cross member to “walk the stud in”. It doesn't hurt to stick a screwdriver
against the stud and tap it with a hammer to shove the stud over enough
to fall into the hole.
Now go ahead and tighten
the motor mounts, and exhaust. It's highly recommended you use new studs
if the old ones came out. Use thread-locker on the hole end, and anti-seize
on the nut end.
On automatic transmission
models re install the torque converter bolts thru the timing window, using
the 7/8 wrench to turn the crank. If you get your 12mm in there right,
you can chock the wrench against the hole for leverage.
Now the motor sits nicely, and you can go ahead and re-connect everything!
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