Water Pump and Cooling System

Clutch Fan Removal and Replacement

Use a 10mm combination and a 22mm (7/8”) open end wrench. You may have to remove a fan shroud, two 10mm bolts on the top, and two on the bottom. Be careful not to damage the radiator as you bring it up between the radiator and the fan.

The shaft of the fan will have a flat spot to accept a 22mm wrench. While holding the shaft still with the 22mm, use the 10mm open or box-end to remove the 4 10mm nuts where the fan meets the water pump pulley. Once the nuts are removed, the fan will slide away from the studs on the pulley. Remove the fan any time the radiator or engine will be removed.

Installation is reverse order.

Cooling System Draining

Remove the radiator cap. Loosen the petcock on the lower corner of the radiator. That will drain the radiator, and bring the coolant level even with the top of the block and the intake ports. There is a 14mm bolt on the bottom of each head that drains the water jacket in the block and heads. The passenger side is easy to get to with a 44mm socket, but the engine cross member is in the way of the driver side drain. use a 14mm wrench, or loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up for access

Radiator Removal and Installation

On automatic models you will have to remove the ATF cooling lines from the driver side of the radiator. The Stock OE clamps will have 8mm heads on the clamps. Most aftermarket clamps will have ¼”

With the clutch fan removed and the radiator drained, remove the top radiator hose from the radiator itself. The stock OE clamps will have a 10mm head. Most aftermarket clamps will have 5 1/6”(8mm) Remove the Lower radiator hose from the water pipe on the engine. Remove the two 12mm bolts at the top of the radiator mounts. Unclip the fan and thermoswitch wires. The radiator will come out with the electric fan still attached, but removal of the fan makes the radiator more maneuverable.

To remove the electric fan from the radiator, remove the two 10mm bolts on the top, and the 2wo on the bottom. With the fan removed, pull the top of the radiator towards the engine, up, and out. You will notice 2 rubber boots on the bottom mount that the radiator centers on.  Keep them in mind when re-installing the radiator. Re-installment of the radiator is the reverse of removal. The top mont 12mm bolts have a tapered shank, so pushing in and turning with a socket and extension will help to center the bolt and catch a thread

Water Pump Removal and Replacement

Follow the procedure for Timing Belt Removal and Replacement

With the timing belt covers removed, remove the upper water pipe from the top of the water pump, by removing a 12mm bolt on the hose end. It will pull away, inspect the rubber o-ring and replace if necessary.  Loosen the TOP clamp from the 90 deg bend hose that goes to the heater hose water pipe. Twisting the hose will make it pull away easier. Remove the 5 bolts around the radius of the water pump. If the water pump does not come away, give it a dull tap with a mallet. Some coolant may spill out. Check for play in the water pump pulley and shaft, replace pump if necessary. Check or replace the 90 deg hose. If using odd length of heater hose, use slightly longer to avoid a kink. Hose Diameter is 1/2”

Scrape and remove the old gasket material from the engine and pump. Install a new gasket, RTV silicone, or both.

Use anti-seize compound on the bolts from thread to head. Tighten down the pump to spec in a star-pattern. If using silicone, snug the bolts down, and allow the silicone to set up before applying final torque.

If not using a torque wrench, use a ¼” drive ratchet to have more “feel” for the torque, as you don’t want to twist the bolts off

Hoses

Be sure to inspect and replace all the other cooling system hoses.

Check the hose between the block and intake manifold, it is located near the thermostat housing. Some carbureted models may have additional coolant lines around the back of the intake. The stock OE clamps will have 8mm heads. Most aftermarket clamps have ¼ inch head.

Check or replace the Heater Hoses. The heater hoses are located near the starter. If replacing with odd length 5/8 hose, connect them to the firewall end first, and run them around the starter. Leave enough length so that it doesn’t kink around the bends. The stock OE clamps will have a 10mm head. Most Aftermarket clamps have a 5 1/6” (8mm) head

On turbo models replace the Turbo Water Return hose with a new length of 1/2” hose

Thermostat

Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the top thermostat housing  to the intake manifold. On turbo models, disconnect the AAV hose from the intake manifold. Remove the AAV and thermostat housing as one unit. Scrape away any old gasket material. Remove and inspect the thermostat, boil it in water to see if it opens at its specified temp. It’s always a safe bet to replace with a new unit.

The Thermostat diameter is 54mm, some aftermarket units do not have an air bleeder hole. Although not a major issue, I recommend drilling a 1 1/6” hole thru the outer edge. Install the thermostat big side down. Replace the gasket with RTV silicone, a paper gasket, or both. When using silicone, snug the bolts down and let the silicone set up before torquing down the bolts. There are also rubber gaskets that do not require silicone.

Heater Core

Follow the procedure for Dashboard Removal

Coolant Check and Fill

It is very important to displace any air in the cooling system to ensure cooling system efficiency. First of all, make sure the radiator cap seals up and works properly to maintain cooling system pressure. Having a pressurized cooling system allows for a higher boiling point. It is recommended that the coolant be changed every 2 years, as it contains a zinc content that is used up by electrolysis of the dissimilar metals in the engine and radiator to prevent corrosion.

From a dry system, fill the radiator completely with the proper mix of antifreeze coolant. Once the radiator is full, start the engine. Watch for air bubbles to rise as the engine takes up the coolant. Add coolant as the motor runs, keep watching for air bubbles, and to see if the coolant level goes down. Squeezing the radiator hoses will help “burp” any remaining air

Let the engine run to operating temperature, allowing the thermostat to open. The thermostat will only open if there is enough coolant flowing through it. Watch for the temperature gauge to stay steady at a comfortable temperature.  Top off any more coolant and put the cap on. Drive the car to see if it maintains steady temp. If it wants to get hot, there is still air in the line. If that is the case, let the car cool off and then top off the radiator.

As a safe measure, check the coolant level before driving the car the next time.

The entire cooling system uses approximately 1 ½ gallons

The radiator itself uses about ½ to ¾ gallon.

Temperature Guage

Indicant Standards